Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
